Best Nom_100050

Hot And Historical
Old-timey Cooking

Move over, molecular gastronomy: futuristic foams seem passé as chefs increasingly look back — way back — for culinary inspiration. Consider the “time-honored cookery” at Kitchen (560 Tremont Street, Boston, 617.695.1250), the latest venture from chef Scott Herritt of Marliave and Grotto, who spent thousands on antique cookbooks; now his new South End spot offers fare like the Grand Sallet (circa 1638) and Tornedos Rossini (circa1833). Meanwhile, Cuisine en Locale’s locavore chefs teamed up with Terroir Studio’s event curators for the Culinary Heirloom Project, which staged its first throwback feast in May. Drawing on the epic culinary collection at Harvard’s Schlesinger Library, they served a Mother’s Day tea using recipes from 1890 to 1932, all found in the letters anddiaries of a single Massachusetts family. And in July, while the tall ships were in town for the War of 1812’s 200th anniversary, chef Matt Piuma of The Living Room (101 Atlantic Avenue, Boston, 617.723.5101) created a modern (and more appetizing) reimagining of the early-19th-century sailor’s staples of hardtack, salt pork, and dried peas. The trend dovetails with the farm-to-table movement and the resurgence of heritage breeds and heirloom veggies, channeling food’s pre-industrial past. We bet Boston will eat it up.

_ Stuff Boston